as seen on garth brooks' head.

Last weekend I went on my first adventure in Ireland! I planned a trip to Limerick to meet with Joy, another student in my graduate program who is interning at the University of Limerick for the summer.  In total there are six students in my program who decided to take the opportunity to intern abroad this summer, amazing isn't it?  We are spread around the world learning about different higher education systems and structures, cultures and peoples.  I am proud of all we are accomplishing by stepping outside of our comfort zones!

This weekend trip to Limerick was certainly full of interesting times.  I took a bus from Dublin to Limerick for a bargain, just ten euro for an air-conditioned Coach bus.  It operated just as a Megabus would in the States.  You wait at a bus stop in the middle of Dublin (luckily this bus stop was right next to a Starbucks) and pile onto the vehicle when it arrives.  And when I say pile, I mean pile.  As I was waiting for the bus to come I looked around and saw a very large number of people doing the same.  I started to worry that I wouldn't make it onto the bus!  I had tried purchasing a ticket online beforehand, but they wouldn't accept my debit card.  The bright green Dublin Coach bus pulled up to the curb and it was a mad dash to the door. The driver actually had to step off the bus and push people back in order to let riders off.  I was so enthralled by the happenings that I just stood there dumbfounded.  Luckily though there was a surge from the people behind me and I ended up in line anyway.  The bus ride was long and I couldn't get comfortable in my seat, but as it was so inexpensive I didn't mind.

We arrived on the University of Limerick campus at around 9pm and I met Joy, who had been on a trip to the Cliffs of Moher.  We made our way through campus and headed over to the house she is renting for the summer, which is in a quiet neighborhood right outside of the campus grounds.  She explained to me, during the school year the neighborhood is overrun with college students and continuously noisy from parties.  After chatting and catching up, we headed into Limerick because I needed food.  It was getting to a point where I would have eaten my hand.  Unfortunately because it was so late the only open "restaurant" was Subway.  I didn't mind because it would be quick.  Five minutes more and I would be putting a sandwich in my stomach.  The inside of the food chain was a bit dodgy but when I'm hungry, nothing else matters.

To make up for our very American dinner/late night snack, we headed to find a pub for a pint and to watch the World Cup.  I didn't know the area and Joy had only been there for a short amount of time, so we followed the sounds of music.  We found a bar with a band playing outside on a patio.  As we approached the entrance, three girls who looked younger than my little sister were handing over their IDs to the bouncer. Their blatant flirtations with the man at the door didn't succeed and they were turned away for being under 18.  After being accustomed to showing my ID everywhere in the United States, even for R movies, I was ushered in the door with just a glance at my license-wielding hand.  Joy and I ordered a couple ciders and found a table with a cushioned bench that resembled a wingback chair.  It was prime real estate for people watching!   We were in the corner of the inside part of the pub so we had a full view of the interior and to our right there was a shuttered window open to the outdoor patio.

Can you guess what songs they played as we sat and observed the atmosphere? I'll give you a second to think about it.


Friends in Low Places-Garth Brooks
Mustang Sally-The Commitments
Sweet Home Alabama- Lynyrd Skynyrd
Wagon Wheel- Old Crow Medicine Show

I felt like I was back in the Cola at Tin Roof when I heard these songs.  I'd heard about the Garth Brooks fascination before this.  My little sister told me about how his three concerts at Croke Park in Dublin this summer sold out in under two hours.  It's astonishing to me how a certain artist can acquire a fan base in different parts of the world.  As I was walking to work this morning, I even saw imitation Garth Brooks cowboy hats for sale for 5 euro at a shop in town.  When I asked my coworkers, I was then told that the three concerts have been increased to five concerts in five nights due to high demand! Positively astonishing!


After our night of country and rock music, we headed home for some sleep.  In the morning we again ventured into Limerick for the Saturday milk market, which is similar to a farm market. I absolutely loved the milk market. It is housed in a building made of walls of re-purposed wood and a giant white circus tent for a ceiling.  A variety of homemade foods and farm fresh produce were available for purchase as well as knick knacks and random items.  If I needed a used power tool, I'd be in luck.  A weathered, old man had every kind imaginable on folding tables beside his rusty blue van outside.

Joy told me about a French family that sells crepes out of a stall in the main area.  Apparently there is always a long line, so of course I had to have one.  Any good traveler knows that if a bunch of locals are in a queue for a bite, it has to be fantastic.  I tried the delicious heaven that was the Angelique, apples and cinnamon and love, YUM.  We wandered the market for over an hour.  I found a table which sold old records and thought I could stay for hours going through the different genres and artists.  I even found an early birthday present, if I can get it back to the states all in one piece.


As a coffee addict I can't make it past ten in the morning without stopping for an espresso rich beverage.  Luckily there were many coffee stalls and shops to choose from at the milk market.  On our way out I stopped at a little pastry and coffee shop called Harper's Coffee House and ordered my usual vanilla latte.  There was a chill to the morning, so I was happy to have something warm to sip as we walked around the city.

Our next stop was St. Mary's Cathedral.  As there were services going on when we arrived we just stuck to exploring the grounds and cemetery.  A cemetery may not seem interesting to the average person, but I find them hauntingly beautiful, especially if the headstones are hundreds of years old.  Fully matured trees shade the final resting places of citizens of Limerick including Edmond Sexton who was an envoy of King Henry VIII of England.  During the reign of Queen Mary I, his remains were removed from his tomb and hung from the rafters in the church in protest of allegiance to Protestantism.  What is horrifying is the remains weren't discovered for three years!

Across the street we found a gastro pub called The Locke Bar and Oyster House.  I had a delicious chicken sandwich and chips(fries) and a Smithwick's Ale which apparently pronounced smit-icks, who knew?  Evidently this restaurant is pretty famous for its food and atmosphere, because the Clintons visited the establishment during one of their trips to Ireland. There were framed newspaper articles by our table about their experience.  As we sat an enjoyed our meal, a rugby game was displayed on all of the televisions and projection screens.  In that moment I felt pretty Irish.

We made our way to King John's Castle, which I mistakenly refer to as Saint John's Castle constantly.  Even as I write this I make a conscious effort to type the right name.  This was by far one of the most engaging museums I have been to in all my travels.  As you walk through the castle you learn the history of its inhabitants and the city of Limerick.   Each room belonged to a different inhabitant and the museum has used this as a history lesson.  We learned about the constable's quarters and the armory, by seeing how it would have looked way back when.  You can walk to the tops of the towers and look out over the River Shannon.  Luckily I'm short so I didn't hit my head on the ceiling, but be weary if you ever visit.  Also the minuscule steps wind around in such a tight circle that I got dizzy before I reached the top.

From this vantage point it is easy to see the lush farmland and mountains in the distance.  When I looked towards them I pictured the scene in P.S. I Love You where Holly is walking down a quiet Irish road and happens upon Gerry.  I'm a closet romantic and love the idea of a meet cute like that.

My bus back to Dublin was arriving on the UL campus at 5pm, so by the time we returned we had two hours to tour the campus.  And what a campus!  With the amount of green space I felt miles and miles away from the city, when it was really only a 20 minute bus ride.  The university was also alive with activities as the Special Olympics were holding events at the campus.  UL is known for its sports facilities and large number of fields and pitches.  Thirty acres of playing fields is no joke! The campus is even used by the Irish international rugby squad.  Traversing the campus is an amazing bridge known as the "Living Bridge".  It's the largest pedestrian bridge in all of Ireland and at night it lights up with different colors.  I've added the architect's website to the bottom of the page, because it is just an amazing engineering feat to behold (and of course I didn't think to take a picture of it). After a great (and long) walk around campus, we ended at the student centre where a tent was set up with a Zumba class for all participants and their families.  And much too soon it was time for me to catch the bus back to Dublin. This leg of the trip I had two seats for little old me and slept the entire way back.

Just for a little giggle: I was walking to work this morning and a primary school class from the boys school was waiting to cross the street.  As I got closer I heard one of the boys start to chant U-S-A, U-S-A.  All of the boys started to join in when I reached them and were quieted by their teacher.  I had to squeeze by them as I turned the corner towards the college and said, "Excuse me boys, I just need to cut through".  Thirty faces turned to look up at me and I heard one whisper in awe (or fear, I'm not sure which), "She's American."  It seems we have a contingency of Irish boys cheering on the US in the World Cup!

The Living Bridge